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Unidentified racer about the cross the finish at the Mad River Glen Kandahar - photo courtesy of MRG

From Afghanistan to Vermont
By Allen Adler

It may be difficult to accept that Afghanistan – yes, that Afghanistan – and skiing appear in the same sentence. Please accept it.

When World Cup Alpine racing was first glued together in 1967, the nucleus of that first schedule was, and continues to be, those three legendary downhills, the Hahnenkamm (1933), the Lauberhorn (1930) and the granddaddy of them all, the Arlberg-Kandahar, born in 1928 in St. Anton.

Let’s backpedal a bit. In August, 1880, Frederick Sleigh Roberts, a British general, marched 10,000 troops 313 miles in 22 days from Kabul to Kandahar, Afghanistan’s largest city, to relieve a British garrison besieged there by Afghans. He was rewarded by the British crown with a promotion to Field Marshall, and the title of Lord Roberts of Kandahar. British custom allows generals, upon being knighted, to take the name of an important battle.

What is the connection with skiing? Arnold Lunn’s father, Henry, had established the Lunn Travel Agency towards the end of the 19th century. Foreseeing the possibilities of winter sports, he engaged a number of Swiss hotels for the Agency’s exclusive winter use. However, only the well-off could afford such travel and they did not take organized tours. What to do? Henry Lunn then formed the Public Schools Alpine Sports Club for the upper classes who had gone to British public schools, which, in the USA, are private schools. The PSASC was the Lunn Agency, thinly disguised. Nonetheless, it became a huge success with winter sports centers in many parts of the Alps. Henry Lunn had, earlier, been a missionary and had known Lord Roberts in India. He had little trouble, then, in persuading the Earl to be vice-president of the newly formed club.

Beginning in 1903, the club held various winter events, including ski racing, and Lord Roberts of Kandahar put up a cup for the best skier. The first downhill race for the new Roberts of Kandahar Challenge Cup was held in January, 1911, in Crans, Switzerland, and held annually thereafter except for the two World Wars. Now fast forward to 1924 when a new club was formed in Murren which took the name Kandahar. By then, Henry’s son, Arnold, was a power in the sport, having developed the modern slalom. He had met Hannes Schneider, the Arlberg skimeister, in St. Anton, Austria and they discussed a two-club meet to be known as the Arlberg-Kandahar, the winner to be the winner of a combined downhill and slalom. It was held on 31 March-1 April, 1928 at St. Anton and drew an international field. Thereafter, it was held alternately at St. Anton and Murren. Chamonix was added in 1948, Sestriere in 1951 and Garmisch in 1954. The A-K is still alive and well as a charter member of the White Circus, the World Cup.

The Kandahar Ski Club has lent its name to the Quebec Kandahar in 1931 at St. Sauveur, the Scottish Kandahar in 1937, the Far West Kandahar in 1939 the Andes Kandahar in 1942, the Norwegian Kandahar in 1947 and the New England Kandahar held at Mad River Glen on 25 March 1956. This compressed, thumbnail sketch outlines a strange, tortuous historical ski trek from Afghanistan to Vermont.


Sugarbush Evolved

Mascara, my eye! Oh, yes, there was a time when that big, much publicized ski area near Warren was derisively tagged Mascara Mountain by those envious of all its attendant hoopla. But that was long ago and is now but history.

When Damon Gadd, co-founder and president,
opened Sugarbush in December 1958, it was an early model of the complete ski resort, a place for a cozy uphill ride, fine dining, upscale accommodations, clubby gatherings and general all around fun. Unfortunately, the fact that Lincoln Mountain is a big hunk of a skiing hill sort of got lost in the mix. Damon and wife, Sara, had been long time skiers at Mad River, just two mountains north where Jack Murphy was manager. Mad River was, and still is, an old-fashioned, even Spartan area beloved by its devotees. The Gadds and Murphy, taking note of skiing’s growth, thought that perhaps attention must be paid to creature comforts. The big bowl off Lincoln Mountain captured their attention. Jack Murphy gave notice to Mad River and the trio was off to find funding and to make plans. They wound up in Aspen in search of deep pockets and, while there, met Peter Estin who came back to run the Sugarbush ski school.

Sugarbush got its name one evening while blue-skying. Thinking of Vermont-y things like maple syrup suggested Sugarbush. What could be more appropriate? Creature comforts meant, among others, not riding open chairlifts draped in frozen blankets. Only an enclosed lift would do. The answer was an up-mountain clothesline of Easter egg gondolas seating three people each for a 9,300 foot ride up and a 2,400 foot vertical descent. The bubbles were revolutionary enough but it was their adornment of dots and stripes and spirals of every conceivable shade that glazed the eye. It was all in keeping with those flower years but unheard of in a ski environment and it captured the attention of press and photographer. The photos baited the publicity hounds of the Good Life, those who jetted off to St. Tropez and such at the merest whim. Café Society and theatre and political types flocked to Sugarbush with their fur hats and bespoke ski clothes. Orsini’s, a topnotch eatery, led the way in gastronomy. The Valley House base area, at first, doubled as a restaurant. Then followed the unthinkable: a bar in the base house. Dire predictions went unmet. Tablecloths in the lunchroom only enhanced the jet-set image. The anointed gathered, gossiped, dined, wined and danced. An exclusive group called Ski Club 10 lent an international aura to the scene. What went unmentioned was that many of them were quite good skiers on a big, demanding mountain. Even Stein added luster as ski school director in 1964, staying for four years and leaving a fall-line trail, “Stein’s Run,” as his legacy.

Early Sugarbush, although it had first-class skiing, existed largely on image rather than substance. But it was transitory and, like butterflies, the jet-set eventually flitted off to some other favored flower. “Others” came to find splendid, challenging skiing. Prices were comparable to other like ski areas. For fine dining, The Common Man, Chez Henri in the friendly complex at the base known as Sugarbush Village, and the Sugarbush Inn, ca 1960, greeted them. The venerable Blue Tooth on the access road, a renowned après ski watering hole, still throbbed.

Sugarbush finally grew into what it first promised: a first-class skiing experience, with lifts and slopes for all levels of proficiency. The whole shebang was purchased by Roy Cohen who then acquired its next-door neighbor Glen Ellen in 1979 and renamed it Sugarbush North. The cutesy gondolas which carried but 450 skiers uphill hourly were replaced in 1984 by two triple chairs, the Super Bravo and Heaven’s Gate with an uphill capacity of 1,800 an hour. Other on-mountain changes further pushed the old image into the background without eroding amenities. Orsini’s is gone but The Common Man and Chez Henri still cater to the gastronome, joined now by several other prime food purveyors. Sugarbush North’s lift configuration was inefficient and has undergone radical upgrading to provide increased per hour ridership according to Sugarbush president, Bob Ackland. And a big, new lodge is in the works. So, as the saying goes, stay tuned!

With the passage of time, Sugarbush slowly but surely evolved from adolescent frivolity into a more dignified maturity. Mascara ran and is now but a smudge on memory’s face. --Allen Adler

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